Believe it or not: Inside 14th century Delhi fort, djinns grant wishes

Djinns live in the heart of Delhi: they are spirits tending to the faithful seeking help. On Thursdays, they are busy when thousands turn up with letters for them.

Welcome to the ruins of Feroz Shah Kotla fort: it was built by Sultan Feroz Shah Tughlaq in the fourteenth century and now nestles between a cricket stadium and Delhi’s Ring Road. In the niches and alcoves of its stone walls, believers pray, light candles and diyas, and write letters to djinns, supernatural creatures of Islamic mythology made of fire rather than clay as humans are.

A Ramzan evening at the Jama Masjid

Every time I walk to the Jama Masjid from the Chawri Bazaar metro station, what amazes me most is the unanticipated appearance of the mosque’s grand dome at the precise moment when the road bends right for the first time. And before that right, strikingly enough, no first-timer can ever predict that less than a…